Having been a classical guitar teacher for many years (don’t make me count!), I’ve had the greatest of experiences working with guitarists of all standards, including amateurs and those who have gone on to play professionally. When I say amateur guitarists, I’m talking about those who play classical guitar for enjoyment and do not play professionally.
Since Classical Guitar Academy opened its guitar shop, I’ve been faced with a number of questions regarding concert guitars for amateur guitarists. One of the most frequently asked questions is “are concert guitars only for professional guitarists?”. I get a lot of similar questions around this theme too, so I wanted to write an article that helps to explain whether or not an amateur guitarist should consider buying a concert guitar.
Before getting into the debate about whether or not a non-professional guitarist should buy a concert guitar, I’d like to briefly outline what a concert guitar actually is as far as classical guitars go. We can then look at whether an instrument of this calibre would be suitable for a beginner, intermediate or advanced guitarist who simply wants to play for fun.
What Differentiates a Concert Guitar from a Student Guitar?
A concert guitar, quite simply, is an instrument that is of high enough standard to be used professionally in concert. You can expect these instruments to be extremely well made with pinpoint attention to detail. They often have much greater expressive capabilities than a student level guitar and can be pushed harder to produce a louder sound, often referred to as projection. (Note, there is a debate as to what ‘loud’ and ‘projection’ really mean, but I won’t go into it here because it doesn’t matter all that much for the purpose of this article).
You may also find that concert guitars come with a range of extra little features that are rarely seen on student models. These may include raised fingerboards, allowing better access to the higher register (beyond fret 12), as well as more progressive features such as ‘soundports’ which allow more of the sound to reach the ear of the player rather than just projecting forwards from the soundhole and built in arm rests. Not all concert guitars will have these features. In fact, traditional concert level guitars do not have soundports, arm rests or even raised fingerboards. It’s very much down to the choice of the luthier building the guitar or the person commissioning the instrument to be built. A good concert guitar may have none of these additional features and still be considered a top level concert instrument, and is often the case.
Should an Amateur Guitarist Buy A Concert Guitar?
Back to the debate at hand, about whether concert guitars are only for professionals. Can or should an amateur guitarist buy a concert guitar? Let’s look at some of the sub-topics that have been raised whenever I’ve discussed this with my students or customers at our guitar shop.
Fulfilling the Potential
One of the concerns that sometimes puts a non-professional player off purchasing a concert guitar is that they worry they will never reach a standard capable of fulfilling the potential of the guitar. In other words, they will never be able to explore everything the guitar has to offer.
I can understand why this line of thought exists, but the thing I’ll always remind them of is that the core tonal quality of a concert guitar is still superior to a student level guitar, even if the finer margins of the instrument’s potential are never touched. Even playing simpler pieces with a less than perfect technique will be much more pleasurable using a concert guitar than it will a student guitar.
Moreover, a concert guitar can give the player more confidence and encourage them to push their technical and musical boundaries further than they would dare on a student model guitar. So, although simply purchasing a concert guitar won’t instantly make you a better player, it can help you to improve more than you would on a student instrument.
If the fear of not fulfilling the potential of the guitar is the only obstacle stopping you from purchasing a beautiful concert guitar, I would strongly recommend you reconsider. You’re potentially capping your rate of progress with the instrument and denying yourself a much richer musical experience!
“although purchasing a concert guitar won’t instantly make you a better player, it can help you to improve more than you would on a student instrument”
Compensation for Ability
Another fear of some amateur classical guitarists is how they may be perceived by peers for purchasing a professional level instrument even though they are not professional players. Will people think they’re compensating for not being able to play to a professional standard?
I can debunk this one very quickly it with a little data from our studio. The vast majority, and by that, I mean well over 95% of our concert guitar sales are from amateur musicians. That is to say, only the smallest percentage of our concert guitars are sold to musicians who consider themselves to be professional players or aspiring professionals. The remaining instruments are sold to guitarists who want to play for their own enjoyment.
Remember, the term ‘concert’ guitar simply means it can be used in concert, it doesn’t mean the instrument can only be used by players in concert. Don’t let this particular fear stop you from buying your own concert guitar.
“over 95% of our concert guitar sales are from amateur musicians”
Are Concert Guitars Harder to Play than Student Guitars?
I can’t help but wonder if this particular concern comes from the world of electronic technology. Things such as cameras and other gadgets tend to become more complex and feature packed as you reach the professional range. A consequence is that those particular products tend to come with a steeper learning curve than the more basic models.
Fortunately, guitars don’t suffer from that same issue. The size, shape and configuration remains pretty much the same, meaning there is nothing extra to have to contend with as you reach the professional models.
If anything, concert guitars can be much easier to play than student models. The reason for this is that the guitar luthier spends more time and care in setting the instrument up to perfection. For a guitar builder, it is their duty to ensure the guitar plays wonderfully before it leaves their workshop. Their reputation is on the line with every guitar they produce, so you’ll be hard pushed to find a poorly set up concert guitar that’s hard to play.
In other words, a concert guitar is likely to be easier and more comfortable to play than a student level instrument.
“a concert guitar is likely to be easier and more comfortable to play than a student level instrument”
What Should an Amateur Look for in a Concert Guitar?
By now, it should be pretty clear that as an amateur guitarist, you should feel as though you can go ahead with purchasing a concert guitar. Providing you have the budget, there’s no reason not to! So, is there anything in particular you should look for and consider before making a choice?
Compatibility with Guitar Support
Check the finish is compatible with any guitar support you might use. Whilst most supports such as foot stools, cushions or magnetic supports are fine with all finishes, those that use suction cups to adhere to the guitar may not work with some finishes and can even cause damage with prolonged use. Certain finishes such as oil might not play nicely with suction cup guitar supports.
The good news is you can purchase protection film to stop the suction cups from damaging the finish of your new guitar. Be careful though, as these protective films are semi permanent. I’d always recommend you are 100% happy with the placement of your support before applying the film. Although these types of film will protect your guitar from the suction cup, the film itself will cause more damage if you ever want to remove it.
Another option would be a protection film that uses static to adhere to the guitar. These are non-destructive and providing you remove it between use, will not damage your guitar.
Better yet, if you want a guitar support that is truly non invasive and will not compromise the finish of your lovely new concert guitars, we highly recommend the Sagework Atlas and Sagework Umbra guitar supports. These premium guitar supports use magnets rather than suction cups to attach to the guitar. You can purchase additional magnet sets too, meaning it’s quick and easy to use the same guitar support for multiple instruments.
Sound/Tone
It might seem obvious, but every concert guitar will sound different. Just because you’re trying out an expensive, high end instrument, doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily like the sound. Be open and honest with yourself when listening to the sound of any concert guitar you try.
As a very general guide, note that traditional fan strut guitars will tend to have a distinctively different sound to a lattice top or a double top. You may also notice significant differences in character between spruce tops and cedar top guitars.
If you’d like any advice as to which might be most suitable for you, please get in touch and we’ll be happy to assist you personally.
Scale Length
The scale length is sometimes overlooked and often misunderstood. Scale length is essentially the distance between the nut and the saddle. A scale length of 650mm is considered around about standard, give or take a bit. I’ve known some players to shun a shorter scale length because they see it as being somehow less of a proper instrument. In truth, guitars with shorter scale lengths can have the same size body as the 650mm “standard” size guitar and produce a perfectly musical and resonant sound.
The reason I suggest you consider the scale length, is because a shorter/longer scale length may be more suitable to your body size. I would recommend you choose something which is size appropriate so you don’t have a hard time playing your lovely new concert guitar.
Hi. Not a comment on your piece, which I found both interesting and helpful, but a further question, if I may: Do concert guitars have a shorter lifespan than student guitars, being made of thinner, finer woods for projection and broad dynamic range rather than durability? I currently have the option of buying either an old luthier-made guitar with a beautifully full, rich tone and resonance but slight imperfections – higher action on low E (4.5mm), minor hints of buzzing on bass strings, shallow dings to top and slight sinking of top between bracing between bridge and sound hole – for less than £900 against a good student guitar (Alhambra 9p spruce), ordered online, for about £400 more. One of my considerations is whether the finer but 40-year-old instrument is likely to deteriorate further while the new one should be good for many years, on top of whether the Alhambra would satisfy my ears having played the luthier guitar already. Thanks.
Hello Dan,
Thanks for your comment, I’m pleased you found this to be interesting and helpful.
I guess there are two answers to your questions on lifespan; one of physical longevity and another of tone. In terms of physical lifespan, a concert guitar should last longer than you and I. As Ryan Gibson puts it, he wants his guitars to be ‘legacy’ instruments that will span generations. I believe this is true of all well made concert guitars, in that they will physically last for an incredibly long time.
That being said, tone may vary over the years. We’re all quite familiar with the fact that a spruce top will generally mature and mellow for a number of years as it ages. This is a trait that is well documented and agreed upon among guitarists and makers (I’m yet to hear anyone counter this point, has anybody had a different experience?). The thing that few people tend to speak about however is that unless we care properly for our guitar, the tone may change for the worse as the years go on. Temperature changes and extreme humidity (either low or high) can do terrible things to the wood which will detract from the sound. It’s recommended that you care for your guitar between uses by installing a humidity regulator of some sort. There are also tools you can now use to track the relative humidity on your phone/tablet, if you’re really concerned about this issue. It’s also recommended to avoid big fluctuations in temperature. If travelling, be sure to leave your guitar to acclimatise for an hour or so in it’s case when you go from outside to inside (whenever possible).
The buzzing and action you’re experiencing may be set up issues rather than issues relating to the quality/longevity of the guitar. Is the neck warped? A small amount may be rectified by a good luthier, but a large warp is a red flag.
If you balance a short ruler on top of 3 frets at a time, is there any wobble? This would suggest an unseated fret which may cause buzz. This is easily fixed by stoning and redressing the frets.
The sinking (aka “pillaring”) is usual in older guitars. Providing this is not extreme, I wouldn’t worry too much. I’ve seen this below the bridge before, but not between soundhole and bridge.
I’m aware that this reply may come a little late, as you may have already made your choice. However, if you’re still looking for advice on a new guitar, please do get in touch with me via email or phone. I’ll be happy to talk through your options in more detail.
All the best,
Ed